Why Do Cats Cover Their Poop?

Cats are famously tidy, often stepping gingerly into their litter boxes, doing their business, and then carefully covering the evidence. But what happens when your cat poops outside the litter box, leaves droppings on the floor, or stops burying altogether? And why does cat poop sometimes smell so bad it clears a room? In this comprehensive guide, we unpack the science, instinct, and practical steps behind feline toileting — from burying behavior to box setup, medical red flags, and odor control you can trust.

1. The Instinct Behind Burying Poop.

Cats did not invent toilets, but their biology wired them with remarkable hygiene and scent behaviors. The act of covering feces is more than neatness — it is communication, survival strategy, and social etiquette rolled into one.

1.1 Evolutionary scent strategy and predator avoidance

In the wild, feces are potent scent messages. Covering feces can help smaller or subordinate felines avoid drawing attention from predators or dominant cats by muting their olfactory “signature.” Burying is therefore a low-risk strategy — it reduces the chance that a scent trail will advertise a cat’s presence where it sleeps, eats, or raises kittens.

Domestic cats, even when living indoors, retain this instinct. Litter boxes provide a substrate that mimics soil or sand, making it natural for cats to dig before and after elimination. Many cats will sniff, scratch, circle, eliminate, and then scrape substrate over their waste to hide the scent.

1.2 Territory, social rank, and why some cats do not bury

Not burying can also be a message. In multi-cat households or outdoor colonies, dominant individuals may leave feces uncovered in key locations — a bold olfactory marker to signal territory. Conversely, subordinate cats are more likely to bury as a deference signal.

Indoors, an otherwise confident cat might still bury if the litter texture invites digging. A nervous cat might not bury if it feels unsafe lingering in the box — for example, if another cat ambushes it or the box is located in a tight corner with no escape routes. The result can be rushed exits, little to no covering, and sometimes feces just outside the box.

1.3 When a cat suddenly stops burying

Sudden changes are important. If your cat used to cover and now does not, think comfort and health first. Pain in the hips, knees, back, or paws can make digging in litter uncomfortable. Constipation, diarrhea, or urgency can also shorten time in the box, resulting in little or no burying. Finally, stressors — new pets, renovations, schedule changes — can make the box feel unsafe, and cats may bolt as soon as they are done.

2. Why Cats Use Litter Boxes.

Litter boxes succeed when they meet an inborn need: a consistent, diggable surface placed in a safe, predictable location. Most cats do not need formal training — they seek the right substrate and quickly learn.

2.1 Texture and substrate preferences

Cats typically prefer fine, sandy textures that are easy to dig and that clump well. Many dislike sharp, large, or pelleted substrates under their paws. Scented litters can be aversive — cats rely heavily on smell and may avoid perfumes that mask their own scents. Optimal litter depth gives enough material to scratch and cover without feeling unstable.

2.2 Kittens, rescues, and rehomed cats

Kittens often learn by observation. Provide low-sided boxes that they can easily step in and out of. For recently adopted adults, start with several box options in low-traffic areas. If a cat previously lived outdoors, offering an unscented, sandy-textured litter can speed the transition. Using the same litter the cat used in the shelter or foster home can help, then you can change gradually if needed.

2.3 Box setup basics that support burying

Good setup promotes digging and covering. Give your cat a box large enough to turn around comfortably and scratch. Place it where your cat will not be trapped — away from loud appliances and without tight dead ends. Scoop daily to remove odors and keep the substrate inviting. These basics alone solve most burying and odor complaints.

3. Why Cats Poop Outside the Litter Box.

Poop outside the litter box is a message, not malice. Your cat is telling you that something about health, environment, or the box itself is not working. The solution starts with a methodical check of medical and behavioral causes.

3.1 Medical causes to rule out first

Elimination changes are a leading sign of illness. Common medical triggers include:

• Constipation or painful defecation — cats may associate the box with discomfort and avoid it.
• Diarrhea or urgency — when the urge strikes suddenly, cats may not make it to the box in time.
• Arthritis or mobility pain — stepping into high-sided boxes or squatting to dig can hurt.
• Gastrointestinal disease or parasites — inflammation and cramping can alter habits.
• Neurologic issues, medication side effects, or post-surgical discomfort.

Call your veterinarian if you see straining, blood or mucus, frequent small stools, painful vocalizing, weight loss, or if a previously tidy cat begins soiling. A physical exam and fecal test can identify treatable causes.

3.2 Behavioral and environmental triggers

When health checks out, investigate the environment. Frequent reasons include:

• Box aversion — the box is too small, dirty, covered, or has an unpleasant liner or scent.
• Litter dislike — texture too coarse, scented litter, or sudden brand change.
• Resource competition — another cat blocks access or ambushes at the box.
• Location problems — boxes in noisy areas, near washing machines, or in cramped closets.
• Stressors — new pets, visitors, construction noise, moves, or schedule changes.

Each of these can make your cat reluctant to enter, linger, or return to a particular box.

3.3 A step-by-step troubleshooting checklist

1. See the vet first — rule out pain, GI disease, parasites, and constipation.
2. Add boxes — aim for one box per cat plus one extra.
3. Choose size wisely — at least 1.5 times your cat’s body length, with wide entry.
4. Try unscented, fine, clumping litter — 2–3 inches deep.
5. Place boxes on separate floors and in quiet, open areas with two escape routes.
6. Scoop daily and fully refresh weekly; wash with unscented, mild soap.
7. Offer both covered and uncovered options; many cats prefer uncovered.
8. Address inter-cat conflict — provide multiple feeding stations and resting areas.
9. Reduce stress — predictable routines, play time, and vertical spaces for security.
10. Gradually transition any litter or box changes over 7–10 days.

4. Pooping On The Floor: What Your Cat Is Saying.

When a cat poops on the floor, it is almost always a solvable problem. The where often reveals the why.

4.1 Location patterns decode the problem

• Near the box: suggests box aversion — a dislike of litter, box design, or cleanliness.
• On soft surfaces (rugs, laundry): a preference for a softer substrate than the current litter.
• In corners or along walls: security seeking — the cat wants an escape route and visual control.
• In hallways or doorways: possible territory tension with other pets or people.
• Randomly throughout the home: urgency from diarrhea or medical issues.

Map soiling spots and compare with box locations. Small adjustments to placement and litter type can make an immediate difference.

4.2 Reduce stress and meet behavioral needs

Stress reduction decreases accidents. Build a daily rhythm of interactive play, then feed, then rest — this sequence taps into the hunt-catch-eat-groom-sleep cycle that stabilizes behavior. Provide vertical perches, hiding spots, and independent resources for each cat, including food, water, beds, scratchers, and litter. Avoid punishment, which increases anxiety and can worsen soiling.

4.3 Clean-up and humane deterrence

Clean thoroughly with an enzymatic cleaner that breaks down proteins and fats; standard cleaners often leave odor cues that invite re-soiling. Keep the cat out of previously soiled areas while the new litter box plan is implemented. If needed, block access with furniture, close doors temporarily, or place a litter box over the prior spot and then gradually move it to a better location over several days.

5. Why Cat Poop Smells So Bad.

Cat feces can smell intense because cats are carnivores with protein-rich diets. When gut bacteria break down proteins and fats, they produce odorous compounds — including sulfur-containing molecules — that make a small volume of stool smell surprisingly strong. Add concentrated urine in a nearby box, and the room can quickly become malodorous.

5.1 Diet, digestion, and the chemistry of odor

Higher animal-protein diets can create more pungent stool due to increased breakdown products. Rapid gut transit during diarrhea also intensifies odor by mixing with volatile compounds and partially digested material. Some ingredients, like certain fish meals or high-fat formulations, may amplify smell in sensitive cats.

Probiotics with demonstrated feline GI benefits may help some cats achieve more regular, less smelly stools, but choose veterinary-recommended products and discuss with your vet before starting supplements. Abrupt diet changes can worsen stool quality — transition over 7–10 days.

5.2 Red flags in stool smell and appearance

Smell alone is not diagnostic, but changes combined with other signs matter. Call your veterinarian if you notice:

• Fresh blood, tarry black stool, or mucus.
• Persistent diarrhea (more than 24–48 hours), vomiting, lethargy, or reduced appetite.
• Worms or rice-like segments suggesting parasites.
• Straining, pain, or crying while defecating.
• New foul odor paired with weight loss or increased frequency.

These can indicate infections, parasites, dietary intolerance, inflammatory bowel disease, or other conditions that benefit from prompt care.

5.3 Odor control — safe, effective methods

• Scoop at least once daily; twice is better for multi-cat homes.
• Use unscented clumping litter and add activated carbon or a litter deodorizer designed for cats if needed. Avoid strong perfumes.
• Ventilate the area with a small fan or open window where safe.
• Wash litter boxes weekly with mild, unscented soap and warm water — avoid harsh disinfectants that leave residue.
• Consider open, high-sided boxes rather than tightly covered ones, which can trap odors and discourage use.

6. Litter Box Best Practices That Actually Work.

Most toileting challenges — burying, pooping outside the litter box, and strong odors — respond to a handful of evidence-based best practices. Treat these as your baseline and adjust to your cat’s preferences.

6.1 The 1 + 1 rule and size that fits

Provide one box per cat plus one extra. In multi-story homes, put at least one box on each level. Choose boxes that are at least 1.5 times your cat’s length from nose to base of tail. Many commercial boxes are too small; large storage bins with a cut-out side make excellent, affordable alternatives. For seniors or arthritic cats, use low-entry or ramped boxes to reduce pain and encourage lingering to cover.

6.2 Litter choice and depth

Start with an unscented, fine, clumping litter poured 2–3 inches deep. If your cat prefers softer footing, try ultra-fine clumps; if tracking is severe, use a good mat and keep depth on the lower end rather than switching to sharp pellets. Change only one variable at a time and monitor the result.

6.3 Placement, privacy, and cleaning routine

Place boxes in calm areas with clear sightlines and two exit routes. Avoid tight closets, next to noisy appliances, or in busy hallways. Many cats prefer uncovered boxes, which vent odors and allow better visibility. Establish a care routine:

• Scoop daily; top off litter as needed.
• Fully replace litter and wash boxes weekly or biweekly depending on the number of cats.
• Have a separate scoop and trash can or liner to simplify the job.
• Do not punish accidents; instead, adjust the environment and consult your vet if they persist.

7. Quick Answers To Common Questions.

7.1 Why do cats cover their poop?

It is primarily an instinctive behavior linked to scent control, safety, and social signaling. Burying reduces odors that could attract predators or challenge dominant cats. Indoors, it remains the default if the litter feels good and the box feels safe.

7.2 Why does my cat sometimes not bury?

Reasons include rushing due to stress, pain or arthritis that makes digging uncomfortable, litter or box aversion, and social dynamics in multi-cat homes. If the change is sudden, talk with your vet.

7.3 Why is my cat pooping outside the litter box?

Medical issues, box setup problems, litter preferences, stress, or inter-cat conflict are common causes. Start with a veterinary exam, then optimize the box — size, number, placement, and litter type.

7.4 Why is my cat pooping on the floor near the box?

That pattern often signals box aversion — your cat tries to use the area but dislikes the box or litter. Switch to unscented, fine clumping litter, increase cleanliness, and ensure a larger, uncovered box.

7.5 Why does cat poop smell so bad?

Protein-rich diets and bacterial fermentation produce strong-smelling compounds. Odor spikes with diarrhea, dietary changes, and poorly maintained boxes. Scoop daily and ventilate.

7.6 How do I train a kitten or newly adopted cat to the box?

Offer multiple low-entry boxes with unscented, sandy litter in quiet spots. Gently place the cat in the box after meals and naps. Avoid punishment — reward success with calm praise or play.

7.7 Is a covered litter box better?

Not always. Some cats tolerate covered boxes; many prefer uncovered for better ventilation and visibility. Try both and watch which gets more consistent use and burying.

7.8 What litter depth is best?

Typically 2–3 inches. Too shallow makes covering difficult; too deep can feel unstable. Adjust slightly to match your cat’s comfort and dig preference.

7.9 Can diet reduce odor?

Sometimes. Highly digestible, balanced diets can yield smaller, less smelly stools. Transition gradually and consult your veterinarian, especially if your cat has GI sensitivity.

7.10 When should I seek veterinary help?

Any sudden change in toileting, pain, blood or mucus, persistent diarrhea or constipation, or repeated accidents despite environmental fixes warrants a veterinary exam.

Citations

• House Soiling in Cats. (Cornell Feline Health Center)
• Inappropriate Toileting: House Soiling. (International Cat Care)
• Litter Box Problems. (ASPCA)
• AAFP/ISFM Guidelines for Diagnosing and Solving House-Soiling in Cats. (Journal of Feline Medicine and Surgery)
• The Indoor Cat Initiative — Litter Box Basics. (Ohio State University College of Veterinary Medicine)
• Diarrhea in Cats. (Merck Veterinary Manual)